Shaping: Increases & Decreases
Increases
An increase adds one or more stitches to a row, making the fabric wider. Different increase methods have different appearances and lean in different directions.
KFB — Knit Front and Back
The easiest increase. Knit into the stitch normally but don't slide it off — then knit into the back loop of the same stitch, then slide it off. You've turned 1 stitch into 2. KFB leaves a small bar visible on the right side of the increased stitch — it's not invisible but it's reliable and easy.
M1L — Make 1 Left (Left-Leaning)
Insert the left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand of yarn running between the stitch just worked and the next stitch. Knit this lifted strand through its back loop. This twists the strand so it doesn't leave a hole, and the increase leans left. M1L is nearly invisible in stockinette.
M1R — Make 1 Right (Right-Leaning)
Insert the left needle from back to front under the horizontal strand between stitches. Knit this lifted strand through its front loop. The increase leans right. M1L and M1R are typically worked in pairs to create symmetrical shaping (e.g., raglan increases, mitten thumb gussets).
YO — Yarn Over (Decorative Increase)
Wrap the working yarn around the needle before working the next stitch. This creates a new stitch AND a deliberate hole (eyelet) in the fabric. Used decoratively in lace patterns and buttonholes, not typically for invisible shaping.
Decreases
A decrease removes stitches from a row, making the fabric narrower. Decreases lean in a direction and are often worked in pairs so shaping is symmetrical.
K2tog — Knit Two Together (Right-Leaning)
Insert the right needle through the next two stitches simultaneously as if they were one stitch, and knit them together. The resulting stitch leans to the right. K2tog is the simplest and most common decrease.
SSK — Slip, Slip, Knit (Left-Leaning)
- Slip the next stitch knitwise to the right needle.
- Slip the following stitch knitwise to the right needle.
- Insert the left needle through the front of both slipped stitches and knit them together.
SSK creates a left-leaning decrease. It's the mirror image of K2tog. They are almost always used together — SSK at the left edge of shaping, K2tog at the right edge — to create symmetrical lines in raglan shoulders, necklines, and mitten fingers.
P2tog — Purl Two Together
Like K2tog but worked on purl (wrong-side) rows. Insert the right needle through two stitches purlwise and purl them together. Creates a right-leaning decrease on the right side of the work.
Invisible Shaping
Invisible shaping means the increases or decreases are barely visible in the finished fabric. This is the goal for garments where you want smooth, professional-looking shaped seams.
Tips for Invisible Increases
- Use M1L and M1R rather than KFB — M1 increases are nearly invisible in stockinette.
- Work increases 1–2 stitches in from the edge: K1, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, K1. This keeps the edge clean for seaming.
- Always twist the lifted strand when working M1L/M1R — an untwisted strand leaves a hole.
Tips for Invisible Decreases
- Use SSK on the right side of decreases (left-leaning) and K2tog on the left side (right-leaning) — this creates a symmetrical chevron that follows the line of the shaping.
- Work decreases 1–2 stitches from the edge for a clean selvage.
- Consistent placement on every shaping row creates a neat, diagonal line.
Reading Shaping Instructions
Patterns give shaping instructions in a condensed shorthand. Here's how to decode the most common formats:
Common Shaping Phrases
| Pattern phrase | What it means |
|---|---|
| Dec 1 st each end every RS row 5 times | Work a decrease at each end of every right-side row, 5 times total (10 sts decreased) |
| Inc 1 st each end every 4th row | Increase at each end of every 4th row (every other RS row in a flat piece) |
| BO 3 sts beg next 2 rows | Bind off 3 stitches at the start of each of the next 2 rows |
| Work even until piece measures 8" | Continue without any increases or decreases until you reach the stated length |
| Shape raglan: dec 1 st each side every RS row | Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every right-side row (WS rows worked straight) |
Keeping Track
Use a row counter or notebook to track which row you're on during shaping. Mark each completed shaping row with a tick. It's very easy to lose track when working multiple shaping instructions simultaneously (e.g., neck shaping and raglan at the same time).