Finishing Techniques

Weaving In Ends

Every time you start a new ball of yarn or change colour, you create a loose end that must be secured so it doesn't unravel in use or washing.

Basic Weaving Method

1. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.
2. Weave in and out of 5–6 stitches diagonally on the wrong side of the fabric.
3. Change direction and weave back through a few stitches — this locks the end in place.
4. Trim the yarn close to the fabric, stretching it gently first so the end hides inside.

Duplicate Stitch Method (for Colourwork)

In colourwork where the wrong side is visible, weave ends using duplicate stitch: thread the tail onto the tapestry needle and trace the path of existing stitches in the matching colour for 4–5 stitches. The end becomes invisible because it follows the yarn path exactly.

Tips for Secure Ends

• Leave at least 6 inches of tail when starting or ending — too short makes weaving difficult.
• Never tie knots — knots show through the fabric and can work loose.
• Weave in different directions, not in a straight line, so the end can't pull out.
• For plant fibres (cotton, linen) which don't grip as well, weave in extra length.

Blocking

Blocking is the process of wetting your finished knitting and pinning or shaping it to its final dimensions while it dries. It transforms knitted fabric — evening out stitches, opening up lace, and relaxing the yarn into its final drape.

Wet Blocking

1. Soak the knitting in cool water for 15–30 minutes. Don't agitate — gentle soaking is enough.
2. Squeeze out excess water gently. Do not wring. Roll in a towel and press.
3. Lay flat on blocking mats and pin to the correct dimensions using rustproof T-pins.
4. Leave to dry completely — this can take 24–48 hours depending on fibre and environment.

Wet blocking is best for wool, alpaca, and most natural fibres. It's the most thorough method.

Steam Blocking

Hold a steam iron a few centimetres above the knitting (never press down on knitting with a hot iron). The steam relaxes the fibres. Good for acrylic blends and items that don't need reshaping — just evening out. Not suitable for delicate fibres or heavily textured stitches (cables, bobbles).

What Blocking Does

• Evens out uneven tension in the fabric
• Opens lace to its full, airy appearance
• Relaxes cables and allows them to settle
• Helps pieces lie flat and seam together more easily
• Sets the final dimensions of the piece

Seaming

Many knitted garments are worked in flat pieces then seamed together. Good seaming is invisible — the goal is a seam that looks like a continuation of the knitted fabric.

Mattress Stitch (for Stockinette Side Seams)

The most useful seaming technique for vertical seams in stockinette fabric.

1. Lay both pieces right-side up, side by side.
2. Thread a tapestry needle with matching yarn.
3. Pick up the horizontal bar between the edge stitch and the second stitch on one piece, then pick up the corresponding bar on the other piece.
4. Work up the seam, alternating sides, picking up 2 bars at a time.
5. Every few rows, pull the seaming yarn gently to close the seam — it becomes invisible.

Kitchener Stitch (Grafting Live Stitches)

Used to join two sets of live stitches with a seamless graft — most famously for sock toes. Requires the stitches to still be on the needles. The result looks like a row of knitting has appeared between the two pieces. Kitchener stitch follows a specific sequence: set up, then *knit off, purl on (front needle); purl off, knit on (back needle); repeat*.

Whip Stitch

The simplest seaming method — pass the tapestry needle through both edges from front to back at regular intervals. Creates a slightly visible ridge seam, best used where the seam won't show (armhole joins, toy seams).